You’ve just taken your cat for a flea treatment only to discover that it still has fleas…Embarrassing? Maybe. But it’s certainly not uncommon. Just about all of my clients have had the same thing happen at some stage. It can be frustrating. But don’t despair – I’m going to tell you what to do if you’re wondering what to do if your cat still has fleas after treatment . So please read on and then use my advice on how to treat your cat. There are many reasons why a cat has fleas, which may make it more difficult to determine why your cat still has fleas after treatment. Understanding these reasons can help you determine the right course of action to get rid of fleas on your cat completely, and keep them away for good. A cat that has been treated for fleas still has fleas after treatment is most annoying. If you treat your cat, it should be free of those horrible little parasites for at least a month afterward. You probably spent money on the flea treatment, because it does not come cheap and you want to get rid of those bugs once and for all. Cat fleas can stick to a long bushy cat fur and hide in it until the right time comes. You should treat an adult cat, who has been living with fleas all over, at least three times if this is your first attempt to get rid of them, or two times if this is not your first attempt. Cats often have a lot of fleas on their body, and it’s not easy to find them all. Fleas attach tightly to the cat hairs and may appear as tiny black dots moving from one hair to another.

Cat Still Has Fleas After Treatment

Introduction

If you have fleas on your cat, give yourself a pat on the back—you’re taking good care of him! Fleas are tiny, but they can cause major issues for pets. Luckily, there are several over-the-counter medications that kill and prevent fleas. While these products do an excellent job of stopping flea infestations, they aren’t 100% effective all the time. If your cat still has fleas after treatment, there are some things you can do to get rid of them once and for all.

Step 1

Before getting your kitty back into bed, you’ll want to wash all of her bedding and clothing. Wash them in hot water, which is the best temperature for killing both fleas and their eggs. Flea eggs can be found on your cat’s fur, so it’s important to get those clean too. If you’re not sure where all of this stuff is, ask an animal shelter or host of a flea market for help in locating items that belong to your pet—they might even be able to take some of it off your hands!

If you’re feeling particularly brave (or lazy), many people recommend putting their cats into a bathtub before washing them with soap and water. This isn’t something we suggest doing without letting someone else know where they are; otherwise they may end up getting lost forever! Once again though: check with the owner before taking any action without his or her consent because they might have another plan entirely

Discard or wash any bedding or clothing where your cat has been lying. Wash in hot water to kill fleas and their eggs.

Wash in hot water to kill fleas and their eggs.

If you have a washing machine, you can wash all of your cat’s bedding and clothing in hot water. If you don’t have a washing machine, place the dirty items in a non-plastic bag and tie it tightly shut before taking it to the nearest laundromat or facility that provides coin-operated laundry services.

If you use bleach to wash the bedding or clothing, make sure that it is extra strength bleach (aka 5% sodium hypochlorite). Using regular household bleach can cause harm to your pet because of its high pH level; so only use extra strength bleach when treating for fleas on cats!

Step 2

Vacuum carpets, furniture and other areas the cat has access to. Dispose of the vacuum bag immediately. Spray a household insecticide containing pyrethrin on surfaces where flea eggs may be present, such as corners of rooms, carpet edges and baseboards.

Vacuum carpets, furniture, pet beds and other areas the cat has access to. This will help get rid of adult fleas and prevent some eggs from hatching. Dispose of the vacuum bag immediately.

Vacuuming is a good way to kill adult fleas. It will help get rid of the adults and prevent some eggs from hatching, but it does not kill larvae and pupae. Vacuuming can also be useful in preventing flea infestation in the future if you repeatedly vacuum areas where your cat has been, such as carpets and furniture.

Always dispose of the vacuum bag immediately after vacuuming to prevent any escaped fleas from migrating into other parts of your home.

Step 3

Spray Insecticide on Surfaces Where Flea Eggs May Be Present

Spray a non-aerosol insecticide according to the directions on the product label. This can be done weekly as needed, or daily if you have fleas in your home. Spray insecticides onto carpets and furniture where fleas may lay their eggs, as well as pet beds or bedding. Use an aerosol spray with a fogger attachment for spraying corners inside rooms, carpet edges and baseboards (edge of carpet to wall). Dispose of vacuum bag immediately after vacuuming.

Spray a household insecticide containing pyrethrin on surfaces where flea eggs may be present, such as corners of rooms, carpet edges and baseboards. Repeat this step weekly until you no longer see fleas on your cat after treatment.

If you’re still seeing fleas after treatment, spray a household insecticide containing pyrethrin on surfaces where flea eggs may be present, such as corners of rooms, carpet edges and baseboards. Repeat this step weekly until you no longer see fleas on your cat after treatment.

Step 4

If you still notice fleas or their eggs after treatment, your next step is to fog your home. This can be done using products containing malathion or dichlorvos. The flea larvae will be killed by the fumes, and adult fleas will die within 2-6 days of exposure if they aren’t exposed to sunlight (which kills them). Repeat this process every 3-4 weeks until no more fleas are seen in your home. Be careful not to expose yourself or your pets while fumigating; wear protective clothing, close doors and windows when spraying, and open a window afterward to clear out any lingering fumes before reentering the room.

Fumigate your home if necessary with a fogging product, sometimes called bug bombs, that contains malathion or dichlorvos to kill adult fleas and their immature stages in less accessible areas around the house.

If you have a flea problem, it is possible that not all of the fleas are gone. If your cat still has fleas after treatment, it may be because they were hiding in areas where the spray did not reach. Fumigating your home with a fogging product will kill adult fleas and their immature stages in less accessible areas around the house such as under furniture or behind baseboards. Foggers are safe for people and pets if used according to label instructions, but they do not kill eggs or larvae so you must treat again after using them.

Flea treatment will work eventually!

Your cat won’t be totally flea-free until all of the adult fleas are gone. And adult fleas can still lay eggs, so you’ll have to keep up your routine to prevent larvae from hatching.

If you’re using a topical treatment, remember that it will take time for it to work. The medication needs time on your cat’s skin or fur in order to kill the existing fleas, and also needs time for any new eggs and larvae that are developing into adults before they can emerge as full-fledged bloodsuckers themselves.

Conclusion

We hope these steps have been helpful, and we wish you the best of luck in treating your cat’s fleas.