Insecticide For Begonias

When you’re looking to protect your begonias from aphids, you want some of the best organic insecticides. There are a number of reasons why organic insecticides are important. Firstly, they are safe (with many brands being safe for use around kids and pets). Secondly, they don’t kill off the predators of pests (like ladybugs) so they give us more control over their population growth. Lastly, they don’t leave toxic residues on our plants much longer than a few hours after spraying as these chemicals breakdown quickly in the environment.

Insecticide For Begonias

Main pests

Vine weevil

The black vine weevil (Otiorhynchus sulcatus) is found throughout the world and in some areas causes severe damage to commercial crops. With the increased use of container plants, it has spread from nurseries and now flourishes in our gardens.
Adult weevils are about 1/2 in (1 cm) long and black, with a number of lighter spots on the shell. The first adults emerge in early spring and continue to do so over a period of about two months. Although they are flightless, they are evidently excellent climbers, as larvae are often found in tubers of Pendula begonias hanging many feet above the ground.
The larvae, which are legless, are about 1/4 in (7 mm) in length. They are crescent-shaped, white or cream in color, with a light brown head. Pupation occurs in mid- to late winter in a smooth-walled cell in a tuber, in the potting mix, or in open ground.
The weevils enjoy a varied diet, with the adults feeding at night on the leaves of any of some 100 different plants, where they leave a characteristic notched pattern on the edges. But the larvae are the most destructive during late summer and fall, with their unobserved voracious attack on the roots and, in the case of begonias, on the tubers. The growing plant, under attack by these larvae, may wilt and not thrive, as the small roots so important to growth are being eaten.
It pays to check a wilting plant for any signs of infestation by knocking it out to check the roots rather than applying more water immediately. A dormant tuber infested by the weevil larvae may have anything from one small hole to many holes, or may even be just a husk where the weevils have dined out in style.
The most sensible way to combat all pests and diseases is with prevention, and this is particularly so with the vine weevil, since most controls are very toxic.
Avoid growing begonias with plants such as cyclamen, which have a reputation as one of the weevils’ favorite foods. Check the root ball of any growing Tuberhybrida purchased or received during the season, and be vigilant for evidence of activity when repotting tubers. Potential hiding places, such as plant debris and loose boards, are best kept clear of the begonia growing area. It may be possible to catch the adults by looking in such places, but they are shy and nocturnal, so a flashlight search is the only way to find them.
Careful cleaning and inspection of lifted dormant tubers, with perhaps a dip in insecticide, will prevent the weevil larvae transferring from one tuber to the others in their storage area. When potting, fresh mix from a reputable source is recommended; the re-use of old potting mix should be avoided. As few as six larvae in a container can produce 6000 offspring in a season-thus, even one left in old mix can lead to problems.
Most controls are intended for attacking the larvae and are mixed with potting mixes or in the soil to give protection throughout the growing season. The active ingredient in such products is chlorpyrifos, a contact and ingested organophosphorus-be warned that these are toxic chemicals, and any leftover mix cannot be used on the vegetable garden.
Biological controls are also available in the form of nematodes. These microscopic creatures enter the bodies of the larvae, kill them, and continue to multiply, killing any new grubs that hatch during the growing season. The downside is their very short shelf-life and the large quantities they are marketed in, making it difficult for the home gardener to use them.

Mites

There are a number of different types of mite, some clearly visible with the naked eye, such as the European red mite, and others visible only with a microscope, such as the Tarsonemid or cyclamen mite. The latter are the most common type found on begonias. Consequently, their presence may not be noted until after the damage to the buds and growth tips, where they live, has occurred.
Symptoms of a mite infestation are a cork-like substance on the stems of plants and the underside of leaves. The growing tips turn brown and become very brittle, collapsing when touched. Flower buds become distorted, and a brown stain is seen as the flower struggles to open. Plants can be decimated in a very short space of time, and the mites are often well-established before the symptoms are readily apparent.
Mites thrive in hot, dry conditions, so growing under glass heightens the risk of an infestation. Both high humidity and good ventilation around the plants will help prevent infection. Other plants known to be sources of mites should not be grown in the vicinity of begonias; these include cyclamen and strawberries. A wise preventive measure is to isolate new acquisitions, regardless of the source.
Note that insecticides are not effective against mites, and a proper miticide (acaricide) is required. Generally, the more lethal to mites, the more toxic the spray, so take full precautions when using the sprays.
Low-toxicity sprays may prove effective, perhaps largely because of the mites’ dislike of moisture. Seaweed products, which can also be applied as a foliar feed, keep the pests at bay, possibly because of the smell. Pest oil and wettable sulfur are other low- toxicity methods. Another non-toxic option is washing soda (sodium carbonate), using 1 teaspoon in 2 gallons (9 L) of cold water, plus a squirt of detergent. Plants can either be sprayed with this solution or totally immersed, if not too large.

Minor pests

Some other pests that may occasionally occur are root mealybugs, thrips, the green looper caterpillar and sciarid flies (peat gnats). These can generally be readily controlled with the use of any good insecticide.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sk91x1GODIU

Insecticide For Begonias

Begonias are a beautiful plant. They’re also great to grow indoors because they don’t need much sunlight or water, and they can take the heat. But like all plants, begonias have their share of pests—from aphids to spider mites and scale insects. If you’re growing your begonias outdoors, you’ll want to keep an eye out for these pests so that your plants stay healthy.

Insecticide for Begonias: What You Need to Know

If your begonia is showing signs of pests, the first thing you should do is stick with insecticides made specifically for plants. These insecticides will be less harmful to the environment and more effective at killing off the bugs that are causing problems for your plant.

Second, make sure that whatever insecticide product you choose is labeled for use on begonias. Some products may work on other plants but could damage or kill your begonia if used incorrectly.

Third, follow all directions carefully when using any kind of chemical treatment on or near your begonias—even if it’s something as simple as spraying them down with water!

List Of Insecticide For Begonias