Each spring, the vines are looking lush, green and feeling the joy of the present season. Unfortunately, half of those vines will fall victim to insecticides for vine borers. This happens when plants start to bud and the vine borers want a taste of it. Often, when insects feel like their family is being threatened, they will fight back.
Insecticide For Vine Borers
It can be so disappointing when your squash is thriving and suddenly starts to wilt. This may be the result of a squash vine borer (SVB), which is a type of moth that lays its eggs at the base of squash plants. When the eggs hatch, the larvae burrow (or “bore”) into the lower stems, weakening or killing the plant outright.
Found throughout the eastern United States, squash vine borers typically attack squash, zucchini, pumpkins, and various types of gourds. They prefer Hubbard squash and are not as fond of butternut squash. Other cucurbits, like cucumbers and melons, are not usually targeted.
The borers overwinter in soil as pupae in cocoons. When the adult moths emerge in early to mid-summer, they lay eggs singly or in small groups at the base of plant stems. The eggs will hatch within 1 to 2 weeks of being laid. The larvae will then bore into stems to feed for about 2 to 4 weeks; sometimes they may also bore into the fruit. In northern areas of North America, there is usually only one generation per year; in southern areas, there may be 2 generations.
If caught early, it’s possible to save the plant. If caught after the eggs hatch, it may be too late. Controlling the squash vine borer is mainly about prevention.
IDENTIFICATION
How to Identify Squash Vine Borers
Eggs: The eggs are tiny, flat, oval, and brown. The eggs are laid around the bases of squash plants.
Larvae: If you slit open a stem lengthwise with a fine, sharp knife, you will see the borer larva, which has a fat, white, wrinkled body and brown head; it can grow to about an inch long.
Moth: The adult squash vine borer is a moth about 1/2 inch long. It has a gray or black body, marked with orange-red on its abdomen, legs, and head. The hind wings are transparent and the front wings are metallic green.
Photo credit: Judy Gallagher/Wikimedia Commons
Identifying Squash Vine Borer Damage
First, the leaves of the plant will likely start to wilt inexplicably.
Look for holes at the base of the plant and green or orange-yellow sawdust-like “frass,” which is the chewed up stem that the larvae produces as it burrows into the plant.
Squash vine borer larvae feed on the material inside the stems of the plants. The stem will start to rot at the site of the feeding first.
Squash vine borer larvae can cause major damage to the inside of your squash plant stem. Photo Credit: Donn Cooper, University of Georgia.
CONTROL AND PREVENTION
How to Prevent Squash Vine Borers
As with most pests, prevention is key.
Sometimes, the best solution is to start your squash as early as possible. This way, plants will be strong enough to withstand any mid-summer attacks and you may even be harvesting before squash vine borers become active. If you plant early, you may need to be prepared to cover your plants in case of late frost.
Do not plant squash in the same area two years in a row. Squash vine borers overwinter in cocoons in the soil. Also, clean up and dispose of ALL plant debris in the fall.
As soon as the squash plants are finished for the season, dispose of them. Till the soil in the fall and spring to get rid of overwintering pupae.
Physical barriers can be an effective means of keeping squash vine borers at bay:
Cover the plants’ stems with a barrier, such as strips of nylon stockings or aluminum foil, to prevent egg laying.
Before flowers appear on the plants, use row covers to keep squash vine borers away. The covers will need to be removed for pollinators, eventually. This will not only give you a head start over pests, but protect your plants from strong heat and frost.
Adding parasitic wasps to your garden prior to the vine borer’s egg stage can be helpful, as these wasps are the borers’ natural enemy.
If you give up on zucchini, which is susceptable to vine borers, try growing a squash that’s more resistant. Butternut squash and Cucuzzi (Lagenaria siceraria)—also known as the snake gourd—tend to be resistant to squash vine borer attacks.
Plant extra squash for the pests! This pest is around for only 6 to 8 weeks and can only eat so much (or so we think!), so making sure you have plenty of plants to spare can help you avoid a total loss for the season.
How to Get Rid of Squash Vine Borers
If you’re already seeing signs of squash vine borers, use these methods to get rid of them or at least minimize their damage to your crops.
If you catch them VERY early, you can manually remove the squash vine borer. Locate the entry point of the larvae, then slit the stem lengthwise with a fine, sharp knife to remove the larva by hand. One plant can house several larvae. Carefully remove the larvae without doing more damage to the plant. After removal, cover the slit stem section with moist soil above the point of injury to promote formation of secondary roots. Also, extra rich soil near the vines helps rerooting.
If you can find the entrance holes and “sawdust,” try inserting a wire and thread it through the stem for some distance to kill the larvae inside.
Sprinkle diatomaceous earth around the stalks when the squash vines are small or the threat of squash vine borers is high (early to mid-summer). Reapply after rain. Also, build up the soil around the vines. Or, sprinkle black pepper around the plants as a defense.
If possible, catch and destroy the moths at twilight or in early morning when they are resting on the upper leaves of the plants.
There are insecticides that work, too, but timing is critical; they are only truly effective when applied at the time when eggs are hatching.
The bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis v. kustaki (“Bt”) is a natural insecticide that can be injected into and applied to the squash stems.
Insecticides containing the ingredients carbaryl (Sevin) or permethrin will work on squash vine borers, too. Always be sure to read labels and warnings carefully before application of any insecticide.
Consult your local cooperative extension service for advice on appropriate chemical controls.
Trap the adult orange moths with yellow sticky traps and yellow-colored bowls of soapy water.
A trap crop of very early-planted Hubbard squash can be used to alleviate pest pressure on other squash.
An old folk remedy from The 1963 Old Farmer’s Almanac says that wood ashes were effective against the squash vine borer.
Insecticide For Vine Borers
There are a number of pests that can damage your plants, and vine borers are one of the most common. They were introduced to the United States in the late 19th century, and now they’re a regular part of many gardens.
The adult moth lays eggs on the undersides of leaves, and those eggs hatch into larvae that burrow into the plant tissue. While inside, they eat away at the plant’s tissues until they emerge as adults.
Vine borer damage can look like holes or notches on leaves and stems, or even girdled branches if you have larger plants like an apple tree or grape vine. While these insects can be controlled with pesticides and traps, it’s best to address them before they become too much of a problem as they can spread quickly in large numbers when left untreated!
Insect Killer – this pest control is designed for use on caterpillars and worm type insects, such as cabbage looper, bagworm, gypsy moth, fall cankerworm, elm spanworm and many more.
Foliage protector – this insecticide is designed for use on a variety of plants including broccoli, Celery, cabbage, Turnip greens, mustard greens, Cauliflower, melons, lettuce, tomatoes, shade trees, ornamentals and many more.
Safe for earthworms & bees – when used as directed, Monterey b.T. Has no effect on birds, earthworms, or beneficial insects such as honeybees or Ladybugs.
Organic gardening – our insecticide is OMRI listed and approved for organic gardening. OMRI, the organic materials Review Institute, determines whether or not a product Qualifies as organic under the USDA’s national organic program.
Easy to apply – product instantly mixes with water and should be applied using either a trigger spray bottle or pressure tank sprayer. Carefully read and use according to label directions.
INSECT KILLER – This pest control is great for use on cabbage looper, hornworms, tent caterpillar, gypsy moth, bagworm and many more.
PROTECTS FRUITS, VEGETABLES, SHADE TREES & ORNAMENTALS – Designed for use on broccoli, cauliflower, kale, mustard greens, eggplant, pepper, melons, tomatoes, cabbage, shade trees and ornamentals.
DOESN’T HARM BENEFICIAL INSECTS – Kills worms and caterpillar stage insects while causing no harm to birds, earthworms, or beneficial insects, such as honeybees and ladybugs.
FAST ACTING FORMULA – Must be eaten by worms or caterpillars to be effective. After ingesting, bugs immediately stop feeding and will die within 2-3 days.
ORGANIC GARDENING – The active ingredient of the product is a natural strain of the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis, which is a leading insecticide used worldwide. Approved for organic gardening, our product is safe for use around people and pets.
