4-Pack Waterproof Solar Predator Lights for Coyotes, Foxes and Raccoons
$35.99 Original price was: $35.99.$31.29Current price is: $31.29.
Stop nighttime raids on your coop and garden with the 4-Pack Waterproof Solar Predator Lights for Coyotes, Foxes and Raccoons. Each unit charges in daylight, then a light sensor takes over at dusk so the LEDs flash through the night while you sleep. Mount them at predator eye level around likely approach paths for humane, non-chemical pressure during the hours when coyotes and other opportunists are most active. Use them as part of a layered plan that starts with a secure coop and smart husbandry, and expect the best results when you rotate positions.
Description
If nighttime raids on your coop have you on edge, the 4-Pack Waterproof Solar Predator Lights for Coyotes, Foxes and Raccoons gives you a simple, set-and-forget layer of protection from dusk to dawn, using bright, automated flashes that activate in low light.
Coyotes and other opportunistic predators tend to be most active after dark in developed areas, which is why an always-ready visual deterrent at night can make a meaningful difference while you sleep.
As a pest control specialist, I recommend using lights as part of a layered plan that starts with a secure coop and smart husbandry, then adds targeted “frightening devices” such as flashing lights at known approach points for extra insurance. That integrated approach is what wildlife agencies and field guides consistently advise for short-term deterrence and ongoing prevention.
Key Customer Benefits
- Night-time protection that matches predator habits. Coyotes, foxes and raccoons concentrate activity after dusk, especially in suburbs and farms with human presence during the day. A dusk-to-dawn flashing light targets the exact window when raids happen, which is why you often see fast wins the first nights it is up.
- Nonlethal deterrence that can reduce losses when used correctly. Visual “frightening devices,” including flashing lights, have shown reductions in livestock depredation in field trials and reviews, although results vary by species and setup. Used at known approach points and moved periodically, they add a humane layer that can tip the balance in your favor.
- Set-and-forget convenience for busy flock owners. Reputable predator-light designs charge by day, then automatically flash all night, so there are no cords to run and no nightly chores to remember. That automation matters on rainy weeks or during travel.
- Flexible placement for coops, runs and garden edges. Mount units at predator eye level and use more than one to cover gates, corners and blind spots. Many poultry keepers and suppliers recommend one to four lights per coop area, positioned to face likely approach paths.
- Plays nicely with the rest of your protection plan. Wildlife agencies emphasize layered prevention, which starts with secure housing and fencing, then adds deterrents like lights to interrupt scouting behavior. Pairing lighting with tight hardware cloth, buried apron wire and raccoon-resistant latches makes each tool more effective.
- Safer for families and wildlife than poisons or lethal control. Light-based deterrents offer risk-free, reversible pressure that can lower the need for harsher measures and align with best practices for nonchemical conflict reduction.
Product Description
What this product is
This is a solar-powered, night-only predator-deterrent light designed for places like chicken coops, small livestock pens, garden edges and orchard rows. Each unit charges by day, then a photocell switches the LEDs on automatically after dusk and off again at first light, so you are not flipping anything on or off at bedtime. In neighborhoods and farm edges where coyotes, foxes, raccoons and skunks do most of their prowling after dark, a visual deterrent that works the same hours they do gives you coverage when you need it most.
How it works at night
The device produces brief, repeated flashes that animals notice from a distance. Wildlife managers group tools like this under “frightening devices,” meaning stimuli that startle or interrupt a predator’s approach long enough to push it elsewhere. These tools can be effective when placed at known approach routes and moved from time to time, especially in the first weeks of use. Field guidance and reviews from wildlife agencies and researchers note that lights and sound are most successful as part of an integrated plan that also includes secure housing and good husbandry.
Some designs use irregular or randomized flash patterns to reduce the risk that animals simply “learn” a steady light and ignore it later. Studies and field projects that tested flickering or randomized LED patterns at corrals and bomas reported fewer night attacks while lights were in place, although results vary by predator and site. That variability is exactly why placement, rotation and combining tools matter.
Why it helps, and where its strengths really show
- It lines up with predator timing. Urban and suburban coyote studies show a clear shift toward nocturnal activity to avoid people. A dusk-to-dawn deterrent directly overlaps that window.
- There is precedent for flashing-light deterrence. USDA’s classic Electronic Guard combined a strobe and intermittent siren and reported large short-term reductions in fenced sheep pastures, which supports the principle that unpredictable light cues can interrupt hunting attempts. Your unit is quiet and light-only, so think of it as the visual half of that concept, best used where noise is not desired.
- Evidence exists, but you should expect mixed outcomes. Controlled and field studies on LED “predator lights” around livestock enclosures have shown reductions in night attacks in some contexts, while other reviews caution that habituation is possible over time. Translation for the backyard keeper, the lights can tip the odds your way, especially early on and when you keep predators guessing by relocating units, but they are not a force field.
What makes this version different
The value of a four-pack is coverage and rotation. You can post two units facing out from the coop toward likely approach lines, then set the others to cover corners, gates or orchard edges, and swap positions every week. Products that flash at variable intervals or in multi-LED patterns aim to provide a less predictable cue, which is useful where predators are persistent or have tested simple steady lights before. User reports from poultry communities reflect this pattern, with many noting early improvements and the best results when devices are moved, used in multiples and backed up by tight hardware cloth and latches.
Clear expectations
I want you to get the most from this tool. Lights are nonlethal, simple and low-maintenance, and they can make a real difference, especially right away. They are also one layer. For stubborn visitors, plan on combining them with coop hardening, feed control, and, if needed, supervised hazing. That layered approach is the standard in modern wildlife-damage management and gives backyard keepers the best odds over the long run.
Product Specifications
Feature | What to expect |
---|---|
Power and control | Solar charging in daylight, photocell turns LEDs on at dusk and off at first light, no manual switching needed. |
Battery | Rechargeable internal battery. Some models use two AA rechargeables and may also offer USB top-up. |
Flash pattern | Either constant red “watching” flash or randomized multi-color flashes that vary in interval to reduce habituation. |
LEDs and visibility | Single red LED “eye” designs focus light forward. 360-degree units use multiple LEDs visible in all directions, often over 1 km in clear conditions. |
Weather resistance | Sealed, weatherproof housings designed for year-round outdoor use. Specific IP ratings vary by manufacturer. |
Operating environment | Built to function in below-freezing cold, heat, rain and snow. |
Typical unit size and weight | Compact “red-eye” lights are roughly 3 x 1 x 2 inches and a few ounces. Larger 360-degree units are about 4.5 x 5 x 6.1 inches and 11 ounces. |
Mounting options | Fence posts, T-posts, coop corners and gates. 360-degree units often mount on a T-post or hang from wire. |
Recommended height and spacing | For coyotes, place lights 20 to 30 inches high at eye level and space 100 to 200 feet apart around all sides of the area. |
Use-case coverage | Best for night-active predators approaching coops, small livestock pens, orchards and garden edges. Works as a “frightening device” and is most effective when part of a layered plan. |
Safety | Non-chemical, nonlethal, light-only deterrence. Safe for people, pets and livestock. |
What is not typically specified | Formal IP code, exact lumen output and run-time hours are often not listed. For wet climates, prefer devices rated IP65 over lower grades like IP44. |
How to Use and Install
Plan your coverage first
Start by walking the perimeter at dusk and looking for the routes predators already use, for example along fence lines, gullies, brushy edges, or gates. Visual deterrents only work when the animal can actually see the flash, so choose locations with clear lines of sight from likely approach directions. Plan to cover all sides of your coop or pen rather than just the door, since persistent predators will circle for a weak spot.
Height, spacing, and layout
For coyotes, a practical rule is to mount lights roughly at eye level and to space them around the perimeter. Manufacturer guidance suggests about 20 to 30 inches off the ground and 100 to 200 feet between units on all four sides for perimeters, with a cluster mount on a single post for large, open areas. This spacing keeps the flashes visible without leaving long dark gaps.
If you prefer a 360 degree flash pattern, a Foxlights style unit can be set on a T post near the center of a small pasture or hung from a wire fence where visibility is best. In taller grass or rolling terrain you may need extra units so that predators approaching from dips or behind shrubs still catch the flashes.
Orient the flashes where they will be seen
With forward facing “red eye” lights, aim them outward from what you are protecting, not inward at the coop, so animals encounter the signal while approaching. Position so the lens is unobstructed by posts, tree trunks, or tall vegetation. The simple test is to crouch at predator eye height at the edge of your property and check whether you can see the light clearly. If you cannot, the animal will not either.
Mounting options that hold up
Use T posts, wooden posts, or sturdy coop corners. Foxlights documentation favors the top or back of a steel post, or a strained fence wire, since those positions are easy to relocate for better visibility. Secure caps and seals tightly to keep moisture out, and avoid mounting behind thick trunks that block one direction.
Power, night-only operation, and first-night setup
These lights are built to charge by day and run automatically at night via a photocell, so there is usually no switch to manage. Give new units a full day in direct sun before your first night, then confirm they begin flashing at dusk. For larger multi-LED units that take rechargeable AA cells, carry a spare set so you can swap them during long cloudy stretches.
Rotation to reduce “learning”
All frightening devices can lose punch if the pattern never changes. Field guidance and extension publications note that animals can habituate to lights and sound over time, which is why movement and variety matter. Rotate positions periodically, vary heights a little, and cluster mount a few units for a different look if activity ticks up again. Treat lights as one moving part of a broader plan rather than a set-and-forget solution.
Combine with physical security for best results
Nonlethal deterrents work best when you also lock down feed, close birds in a secure coop at dusk, and remove clutter that offers cover. Wildlife Services nonlethal work and producer trainings emphasize layered prevention, which means lights plus husbandry plus barriers. In practice, that looks like tight hardware cloth, secure latches, and night penning, then lights at the approach lines to interrupt scouting.
Maintenance that extends service life
Keep the solar face clean, wipe dust and pollen off the panel every few weeks, and re-check that caps and gaskets are tight after heavy rain or freezing weather. Inspect mounts after wind events, trim vegetation that grows into the line of sight, and test at dusk after any move. Foxlights instructions call out moisture sealing and regular checks, a good practice for any solar deterrent.
FAQs
Do flashing “predator lights” actually work for coyotes and raccoons?
There is real precedent for lights as a short-term deterrent, especially at night and around confined areas like corrals or coops. USDA Wildlife Services notes that revolving or flashing lights can deter coyotes, particularly in enclosed settings. Results vary by site and species, which is why placement and rotation matter. Backyard poultry forums show mixed but genuine user reports, from “zero nighttime losses” to “they got used to it,” which fits the broader research that non-chemical deterrents can work yet may lose punch if nothing else changes.
Is there controlled science behind light deterrents or is it all anecdotes?
There is one of the better pieces of evidence from Chile. A randomized, controlled crossover trial found that flashing lights (Foxlights) reduced puma attacks on camelids, although the same lights did not stop Andean foxes. This underscores two truths: lights can work very well on some predators in some contexts, and species respond differently.
How many units do I need and where should I put them around a coop?
For coyotes and other large ground predators, Nite Guard’s installation guidance is to ring the area on all sides and keep lights at predator eye level. Their typical starting layout is spacing units 100 to 200 feet apart around the perimeter so an approaching animal sees a flash before it gets close. Face the lenses away from the asset you are protecting so the animal encounters the signal on approach.
What about raccoons and skunks that run low to the ground?
Manufacturer guidance recommends closer spacing, since these animals move along edges and at lower height. For raccoons, Nite Guard suggests 25 to 50 feet between units, mounted roughly 10 to 15 inches high at eye level and aimed outward along likely approach lines.
Do I need a different setup for deer raiding the garden or orchard?
Yes. Deer behave differently. The standard recommendation is a four-light “cluster mount” on a single post about 4 feet high, with each unit facing a different direction, and to move that post every one to two weeks so deer do not pattern the flashes.
Will predators get used to the lights if I leave them in one spot?
Habituation is common with non-chemical deterrents that never change. Federal guidance explicitly warns that animals often adapt in the long term. Rotate light positions, alter heights a bit, and combine with secure housing for better staying power.
Should I still lock birds in and harden the coop if I use lights?
Absolutely. Extension guidance is clear that night lock-up, hardware cloth over openings, and good coop design are the foundation, with lights as an additional layer. Think of lights as a night-watch signal that complements, not replaces, physical security.
Will these lights bother my chickens or egg laying?
The devices are meant to face outward, not into the coop. Birds do best with a daily dark period for rest. If supplemental lighting is used for egg production, most extension guidance still includes several hours of darkness. Keep predator lights outside and aimed out, and keep indoor photoperiods sensible.
Are the lights safe around kids, pets, and livestock?
These are non-chemical, light-only devices. Manufacturers explicitly market them as safe for people, pets, and livestock, and retailers echo that language. Use common sense on mounting so no one trips on posts or wiring.
Do they work in rain, snow, or freezing weather?
Predator-light brands are built for outdoor use with sealed housings, and the manufacturer literature describes them as weatherproof. Follow each brand’s instructions for keeping caps and gaskets tight and for dusting the solar panel so it charges well.
What if my trail camera shows predators testing the edge again?
First, reposition the lights and vary the layout, then double-check coop and run weaknesses. Wildlife and extension sources emphasize using deterrents as part of a broader plan and adjusting tactics when animals probe for a weakness. If activity stays high, consider adding motion floods or supervised hazing.
Do lights help against hawks or owls?
Lights can be part of an approach for owls at night, yet the most reliable protection for aerial predators is a covered run or overhead netting. Poultry Extension and USDA resources recommend physical covers when raptors are persistent, since raptors are protected and very capable hunters.
Conclusion
Keeping predators away from your chickens, gardens, or small livestock does not have to mean losing sleep or resorting to harsh methods. The 4-Pack Waterproof Solar Predator Lights for Coyotes, Foxes and Raccoons gives you peace of mind by working the hours when coyotes, raccoons, skunks, and deer are most active. It charges itself during the day, then flashes automatically from dusk to dawn, creating a strong visual signal that makes predators think twice before coming closer.
I have seen again and again that when these lights are used as part of a layered plan, secure coop, good fencing, locked feed, they add real stopping power to your setup. They are low-maintenance, humane, and safe around pets and families. And unlike traps or chemicals, you can set them once and let them stand guard every night, rain or shine.
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