Solar Predator Eyes 2 Pack, Motion Activated Animal Deterrent for Coops and Yards

Description

If you keep chickens or tend a backyard garden, you already know the night shift is when trouble shows up. Coyotes, foxes, raccoons, and owls commonly target backyard poultry after dark, while deer slip in to browse tender plants. The Upgraded Animal Deterrent 2 Pack with a solar powered design and motion activated predator eyes is built to help you claim the night again by startling nocturnal visitors with sudden flashes that mimic watchful eyes and human presence, a tactic that pairs well with sturdy housing and fencing for real protection.

Key Customer Benefits

• Nighttime protection when predators are most active. Coyotes, foxes, raccoons, and skunks do much of their hunting after dark, so a burst of flashing “eyes” right then can interrupt a raid before it starts. Extension guidance for backyard flocks notes that raccoons commonly strike at night and are persistent, which is exactly when these lights go to work.
• The surprise factor helps reduce repeat visits. Motion-activated flashes create an unpredictable stimulus that startles animals. Agencies caution that static scare devices lose power as wildlife gets used to them, so varying placement and combining tools keeps the edge. I recommend moving lights every few days and pairing them with other deterrents.
• Humane and neighbor-friendly. Light-based “frightening devices” are a non-lethal first step that aligns with wildlife agency recommendations to discourage browsing and predation without poison or traps. This approach is safer around kids, pets, and coops, and it respects local wildlife while protecting your birds and garden.
• Hands-off solar convenience. No wiring and no batteries to swap every week. Units charge by day, then automatically activate at dusk, which makes them practical for coop corners, garden beds, and pasture edges where power is not available.
• Plays well with a layered defense. Experts consistently recommend combining secure housing, hardware cloth, good latches, and overhead protection with simple scare cues like reflective objects and solar predator lights. Think of these lights as the early warning glare that backs up your fences and locks.
• Backed by research on “frightening devices.” In controlled pasture tests, the USDA’s Electronic Guard, which uses a strobe and siren at night, cut coyote depredation by about eighty nine percent. Your solar predator lights are part of the same family of visual deterrents, and they work best when rotated and combined with other measures.

Product Description

What this device is

The Upgraded Animal Deterrent 2 Pack, solar powered with motion activated predator eyes, is a pair of weather-resistant units designed for night duty around coops, gardens, and small pastures. Each unit charges by day, then sits quietly until darkness, when a built-in motion sensor triggers quick LED bursts that look like watchful eyes. The goal is simple: startle curious coyotes, foxes, raccoons, and deer before they commit to a raid.

In wildlife control, these are called “frightening devices,” and they are most useful at night when many problem animals are active. Extension guidance for backyard flocks and small livestock repeatedly recommends light or sound based deterrents as a humane first layer alongside secure housing.

How it works

Predators scout with caution. A sudden flash in their peripheral vision often triggers a stop and retreat response, especially when the stimulus is unexpected. Motion-activated lights introduce unpredictability, which helps reduce how fast wildlife gets used to a scare cue. This is the same principle behind tested devices such as the USDA’s Electronic Guard, which used a strobe and periodic alarms at night to cut sheep losses in field trials and operational use.

In published evaluations, sheep losses dropped on average around sixty percent in mountain range trials, and the majority of cooperators reported reduced coyote predation when frightening devices were deployed. Your solar predator lights are a quieter, light-only cousin that aims for the same pause and back off moment without noise.

Why this approach can be effective and how to get the most from it

Light-based deterrents are not magic, yet used correctly they can meaningfully reduce night visits while you harden the rest of your setup. Agencies and university extensions note that these tools work best for short periods and in combination with good husbandry, for example locking birds in a predator-proof coop at night, burying wire to stop diggers, and covering runs to block hawks and owls. Plan to rotate or reposition lights, and use more than one unit so flashes come from different directions. The USDA coyote management guide specifically recommends at least two devices in small, level areas, and emphasizes correct placement so the unit sees daylight to charge and darkness to activate.

In practice, motion-triggered flashes shine when a predator is probing fence lines or corners. That is why I like to mount one unit chest-high to a coyote on an approach trail, and a second unit slightly higher near a coop corner or gate, then swap locations every few nights. Independent summaries of light and sound deterrents conclude they can reduce attacks in the short term, which aligns with what we see in small farm settings. Think of these as the “startle layer,” while fencing, hardware cloth, and tight latches remain your long-term backbone.

Usage Case

Backyard poultry keepers are frank about what works and what does not. In forum discussions and product reviews, some flock owners report fewer night visitors after adding predator lights around the coop perimeter, particularly for coyotes and bobcats, while others note mixed results unless the lights are moved or paired with secure housing. That variety mirrors the research, which says frightening devices help most when rotated and combined with solid physical barriers. If you raise chickens, this fits a sensible routine: close the coop at dusk, check the locks, and let the solar units stand guard on the outside.

Product Specifications

Item	Details
Pack size	2 motion-activated, solar animal deterrent lights
Power source	Monocrystalline solar panel per unit, about 1.97 by 0.91 inches, rated around 5 volts and 25 milliamp input; auto on at dusk and off at dawn.
Battery	3.7 volt lithium-ion rechargeable per unit; typical run time about 6 to 8 hours after a full day’s charge.
Sensor	Passive infrared motion detection up to roughly 20 feet, triggers flashing sequence when an animal approaches.
Light output	Red LED flashes that mimic fire or watchful eyes at night.
Weather rating	IP65, sealed for outdoor use in rain and dust.
Dimensions, per unit	About 3.46 in L by 3.43 in W by 1.26 in H.
Mounting	Surface mount with screws or zip ties; for best effect, place lights at the animal’s eye level and face outward along likely approach paths.
Coverage notes	Motion detection is up to about 20 feet per unit in front of the sensor. For perimeter protection, install units around all sides. Some continuous flash models list wide area coverage, for example Aspectek’s Predator Eye PRO lists about 4,600 square feet, which illustrates how coverage varies by design.
Safety	Non-lethal, no chemicals, and considered safe around people, pets, and livestock when used as directed.

 

How to Use and Installation Guide

Before you start: plan the “startle layer”

Walk your coop, run, garden beds, and fence lines at dusk and at night. Look for approach paths such as game trails, gaps under fences, and corners where animals drift in. Plan to place the solar predator lights for chicken coop and garden where a visitor will encounter the flash just before they reach a weak point. Universities and USDA guidance call these tools “frightening devices,” and they work best when they are part of a layered defense that includes a secure coop and good fencing.

Step 1: charge and bench-test

Unbox the two units and place them in direct sun for a full day. Manufacturer guidance for predator lights notes that inadequate sunlight will slow the flash rate, so charge in open sun and avoid shade from eaves or trees. In the evening, cup a hand over the light sensor to confirm the device flashes. If the pattern is weak, move the unit to better sunlight the next day.

Step 2: choose height and aim for the animal’s eye line

Mount each unit roughly at the eye level of the animal you want to deter, then face the lights outward, away from the birds or garden and toward likely approach routes. This simple placement rule is repeated by multiple predator-light makers and retailers for good reason. If the animal does not see the flash until it is already inside the coop area, you have missed the moment to startle it.

Quick reference for eye-level mounting
Use these typical shoulder heights to set a starting height, then adjust an inch or two after nighttime testing.

• Raccoon about 12 inches at the shoulder. Start near 12 to 15 inches.
• Red fox about 15 to 16 inches at the shoulder. Start near 16 to 18 inches.
• Coyote about 21 to 25 inches at the shoulder. Start near 22 to 26 inches.
• Whitetail deer about 32 to 36 inches at the shoulder. Start near 36 to 40 inches so the flash sits in their line of sight.

Step 3: position for coverage and visibility

Predators often circle a perimeter before testing a fence or door. Place units where they are visible from outside the area and not hidden by grass or brush. A common pattern is one unit at a coop corner and the second covering a gate or a well-used trail. Several retailers advise spacing lights roughly every 25 feet on long sides so a circling animal cannot slip through a dead zone.

Step 4: mind the solar panel

Give each panel six to eight hours of direct sun. Avoid shaded walls and overhangs, and keep the small panel clean of dust and droppings. If you must mount on a shaded side, relocate the unit to a post in open sun. Solar lighting guides and manufacturer FAQs both emphasize direct sunlight for reliable nighttime operation.

Step 5: reduce false triggers and blind spots

Your lights use passive infrared motion sensing. PIR sensors can false-trigger when they face direct sun, HVAC exhaust, or swaying warm objects. Angle sensors slightly across the target path rather than straight at it, and keep them away from heat vents or reflective windows. Trim vegetation in front of the sensor to remove flutter in the field of view.

Step 6: test at night and tweak

After dark, walk the same approach path a predator might use. Confirm that flashes trigger before you reach the coop or bed. If the light is too close to the protected area, move it outward so the “surprise” happens earlier. If you get too many triggers from pets or small wildlife, raise the unit slightly or shift it to a narrower approach. Practical installation guides for motion lights recommend iterative height and angle adjustments to balance coverage with nuisance activations.

Step 7: rotate locations to avoid habituation

Wildlife can get used to a static scare cue. Research reviews on frightening devices and USDA field experience show these tools are most effective when their location or pattern changes, and when they are combined with physical exclusion. Swap the two units every few nights or add a third unit later and rotate them on a schedule.

Integrate with a solid coop and run

Lights are your early-warning glare. Your true defense is a coop that closes at dusk and a run predators cannot dig under or reach through. University and extension sources consistently recommend half-inch hardware cloth on openings, raccoon-resistant latches, and either a buried barrier or a 12 inch apron of mesh around the perimeter to stop diggers. This is where motion activated coyote repellent lights really shine, since they interrupt probing while your hard barriers do the heavy lifting.

Predator-specific placement tips

• Coyotes and foxes. Focus on approaches along fence lines and corners. Mount near their eye level and face lights outward along travel routes. USDA and state wildlife notes on coyotes support using visual frightening devices at night in fenced pastures and near livestock enclosures.
• Raccoons. These climbers are persistent around doors, egg-box lids, and vents. Place one unit low near a latch and another covering a path to the coop. Pair with raccoon-resistant locks on all doors.
• Deer in gardens. Set higher, at deer eye level, and cover gaps between beds or along fence openings. Keep plants from blocking the sensor’s view. Combine with a proper garden fence for best results.

Maintenance checklist

Every few weeks, wipe the solar panel, check that vegetation has not blocked the sensor, and confirm screws or zip ties remain tight. If flash frequency slows during long cloudy spells, move the unit temporarily to a sunnier post and recharge. Manufacturer FAQs and solar lighting guides make the same simple care recommendations.

Troubleshooting fixes

• Light does not flash at night. Re-charge in direct sun and verify the photo sensor is not illuminated by porch or street lights, which can keep the unit in daytime mode.
• Too many triggers. Angle slightly away from busy paths, raise the height, and remove nearby brush that moves in wind. Avoid aiming at warm air outlets.
• Predator still returns. Rotate units to new positions and tighten your physical barriers. Bury hardware cloth at least 12 inches or install a 12 inch mesh apron around the run to stop digging.

FAQs

Do solar “predator eyes” actually work on coyotes, foxes, raccoons, or deer?

Short answer: sometimes, especially for short bursts of time, and best when combined with secure housing and fencing. USDA’s coyote damage management guidance classifies lights and alarms as “frightening devices,” useful in confined areas and most effective when you move them regularly to avoid acclimation. Their Electronic Guard tests, which used a strobe and siren at night, cut depredation in fenced pastures by about eighty nine percent, illustrating how a sudden night stimulus can interrupt a raid. Your light-only units aim for a similar startle effect without noise.

I’ve read mixed reviews. Why do some keepers swear by them and others say they failed?

Real-world reports are mixed because wildlife learns. Backyard poultry forums show both experiences: some flock owners report fewer night visitors after installing predator lights, while others document raccoons ignoring them. That matches extension and USDA notes that frightening devices work, but usually for short periods unless you vary placement and combine them with physical exclusion. In practice, rotate locations, mount at eye level, and keep your coop truly predator-proof.

Are raccoons “color-blind to red,” so red LEDs do nothing?

That’s an oversimplification. Mammals typically have limited color vision compared with humans, and research on raccoons and their relatives suggests reduced color discrimination rather than total color-blindness. Regardless of hue, what deters is the sudden, novel flash in a dark approach, not the specific wavelength. Treat “red equals invisible to raccoons” as a myth and focus on placement and rotation.

How many lights do I need and where should I put them around a coop or garden?

Encircle the area so a prowling animal sees the flash before reaching a weak point. Manufacturer placement guides recommend a perimeter mount on all four sides, with spacing for small ground predators roughly twenty five to fifty feet and coyote placements at greater distances on larger properties, always at the animal’s eye level. USDA guidance on frightening devices also stresses using multiple units and moving them every 10 to 14 days to reduce acclimation.

Will the flashing bother my chickens or livestock?

Strobe-and-siren devices tested by USDA showed little to no negative impact on livestock behavior. For poultry, aim the lights outward along predator approach paths rather than into the coop, which aligns with manufacturer instructions and keeps the roost dark.

Do these lights help with deer in the garden?

They can contribute as part of a rotating scare tactic, but deer habituate. State and university resources list flashing or motion-activated devices among options that can deter deer for a time, while consistently noting that proper fencing is the only long-term sure fix. For persistent browse, plan on an eight-foot deer fence or a well-designed electric configuration, then use lights and sprinklers as supplemental deterrents.

Do motion sensors false-trigger in wind, heat, or bad weather?

Passive infrared sensors can trigger from rapid temperature changes, hot air from vents, sun-heated surfaces, moving warm objects, or vegetation swaying near the lens. Angle sensors slightly across approach paths, keep them away from HVAC exhausts and reflective windows, and trim plants in the field of view to cut nuisance activations.

How long do solar predator lights last, and do they work in winter?

Manufacturer FAQs for popular units report multi-year lifespans with continuous outdoor use and operation in both extreme heat and severe cold, provided they charge daily. Keep panels clean and give them several hours of direct sun for reliable nightly flashing.

What else should I do besides lights to actually stop losses?

Lights are the “startle layer.” Your backbone is exclusion. University extensions advise real hardware cloth over openings, not chicken wire. Use one-half inch mesh on vents and windows, secure doors with raccoon-proof latches, and bury wire or install a twelve-inch apron to stop diggers. Closing birds securely at dusk is non-negotiable.

Can I use these on a mobile chicken tractor or along pasture edges?

Yes. Stake-mounting works well for mobile setups. Several manufacturers show simple stake installs and emphasize eye-level mounting for the target species. For larger or open areas, add units at intervals around bedding or perimeter spots where predators travel, then rotate locations every week or two.

If predators keep returning, what should I change first?

Move the units to new angles and heights, add at least one more on a different approach, and harden your setup: tighten latches, add hardware cloth where a hand could reach through, remove attractants like spilled feed, and consider camera verification to spot the entry path. Wildlife and poultry extensions repeatedly stress that combining deterrents with better coop design and sanitation is what breaks the cycle.

Final thoughts

If nights are when you worry most, solar predator lights for chicken coop and garden give you a humane, hands-off “startle layer” exactly when coyotes, foxes, raccoons, and deer tend to snoop. Research summaries from USDA Wildlife Services note that strobe-and-siren frightening devices can reduce depredation for short periods, especially when you use more than one unit and place them so they get daylight to charge and darkness to activate. That same guidance is clear about expectations: rotate locations and pair lights with solid husbandry for best results.

Wildlife pros also flag a simple truth. Animals can get used to a static scare cue. Rotating positions and changing angles keeps the surprise fresh, and it dovetails with the layered approach most extensions recommend. Make the flashes your first line, then back them up. Close birds securely at dusk, skin every opening with half-inch hardware cloth, and block diggers with a buried barrier or perimeter apron. For gardens or open edges where deer or canids test fences, a properly energized electric setup is a proven difference maker.